Some clocks show time, some give meaning to time.
While brands like Rolex, Cartier, Omega represent prestige, there is a quiet but deep universe behind the scenes – independent watchmakers .
They are known more for their ideas than their brands.
Each of them is an artist who stands against the pace of modern industry and reinterprets time.
There is no mass production in this world, there are “batches of 10 pieces” .
These hours are born not on billboards, but on the masters' tables.
Some produce 30 watches a year, some only 10.
But each one utters a sentence that resonates at the heart of horology:
“Time is a product of patience.”
Philippe Dufour – The Perfection of Silence
If there were a Leonardo of watchmaking, it would surely be Philippe Dufour .
Born in 1948, the Swiss master craftsman produces exclusively hand-made movements in his small workshop in Le Sentier—literally, all by himself .
Neither the team, nor the factory, nor the digital software…
Just a table with light, a magnifying glass, a few tools, and patience.
Dufour's aim was never to "make the world's most complicated watch."
His goal was to “ create time in its purest form .”
His first personal model, the Simplicity , lives up to its name: a simple three-hand watch.
But the finishing of the mechanism, its hand-polished corners and mirror-polished staples, is of such perfection that each piece is like a meditation .
Dufour produces approximately 15–20 watches per year.
A “Simplicity” model can fetch over $1 million at auction.
But that is not its value to him.
In an interview he says:
"I don't sell time. I sell labor. Measuring time is for teaching patience."
Philippe Dufour is the heart of independent watchmaking — the conscience of horology.
FP Journe – Rational Intelligence, Emotional Time
François-Paul Journe is as rational as a philosopher and as romantic as an artist.
This French master, born in 1957, founded the brand “FP Journe Invenit et Fecit” in 1999.
Its Latin motto means “He invented and built it himself”—literally, with his own hands.
Journe's vision was to rethink classic complications.
Models such as the Tourbillon Souverain and the Chronomètre à Résonance are works that interpret not only mechanical but also physical phenomena .
In the Résonance model, for example, two balance springs resonate with each other—the clockwork form of sound waves in nature.
This is almost a metaphysical level in horology.
FP Journe produces approximately 800–900 watches per year.
Each case has its own signature inside, its own character in every corner.
The brand has grown but its spirit has never changed.
Today, he still carries out the inspections himself in his workshop in Geneva.
According to him:
“Time is not a measurement, it is an action.”
So wearing FP Journe isn't just about wearing a watch – it's about wearing a mindset.
Kari Voutilainen – The Art of Nordic Light
Finnish master Kari Voutilainen carves the silent northern lights into metal.
In his workshop in the small village of Môtiers, far from Geneva, he combines the magic of colours and patterns with mechanical discipline.
Voutilainen watches are “picture-like” at first glance:
Handcrafted guilloché dials, hand-blued screws, an almost poetic perfection.
But the real magic is behind the mechanism: every corner is hand-polished, the bridges are carved like sculpture.
It only produces 50 watches per year.
Each one is designed specifically for the owner — just like a painting.
In the words of one collector:
“To wear a Voutilainen is to wear not the time, but the hand of an artist.”
Kari Voutilainen generates emotion rather than engineering.
And this makes him one of the most respected masters of the modern age.
From Craft to Vision: New Generation Independent Watchmakers
Rexhep Rexhepi – Silence Racing Against Time
Who would have guessed that a watchmaker of Ardian origins would become one of the most respected names in Geneva?
Rexhep Rexhepi is a genius who began working at the Patek Philippe workshop at a young age. At 25, he founded his own brand: Akrivia . Today, Akrivia is known as a workshop that "blends time with art."
Rexhepi's watches possess an almost mystical silence—so much so that you can see the traces of human hands in every corner. The case corners are hand-polished, the screws are finished with special polishes, and even the edges of the bridges undergo millimeter-by-millimeter anglage.
Annual production does not exceed 40 hours.
Price range? In the six-figure range.
But the price isn't the issue—it's the philosophical connection it establishes over time.
When Rexhepi says, “Every watch is a small rehearsal of eternity,” he actually presents a manifesto for modern watchmaking.
De Bethune – Where Science Meets Poetry
If Jaeger-LeCoultre is the “quiet genius,” De Bethune is the “poet of science fiction.”
Founded in 2002 by Denis Flageollet, the brand has reinterpreted traditional Swiss mechanics with contemporary materials:
Titanium cases, blue heat-oxidized bridges, 3D moon phase indicators…
Each De Bethune model looks as if it emerged from the heart of a spaceship.
But what's most surprising is that amidst all this visual madness, mechanical perfection remains uncompromised.
The brand's DB28 model won the Grand Prix d'Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG) award for "best mechanical watch."
Flageollet's philosophy is clear:
“A clock should show not only the time but also man's curiosity about the future.”
Today, De Bethune produces around 150 watches a year.
Despite being so few in number, each piece creates its own galaxy.
MB&F – Machines, Dreams and Friendships
After working for traditional brands, Maximilian Büsser broke all the rules with MB&F (Maximilian Büsser & Friends), which he founded.
Even the brand name says it all: “Me and my friends.”
Every model is born from the contribution of an artist or fellow engineer — an MB&F watch is a work of collaboration.
MB&F watches are the kind that are “too crazy to wear, but too beautiful not to admire”:
HM6 Space Pirate, HM7 Aquapod, LM101, LM Perpetual…
They are all machine sculptures beyond their time.
The brand progresses with two main collections: “Horological Machines” and “Legacy Machines”:
- The first one carries a futuristic vision.
- Second, it adds a sci-fi aesthetic to classic clock architecture.
Büsser says:
"We don't make watches. Dreams can't be timed, but we try anyway."
The annual production is between 200 and 300. Each one looks like it just came out of an art gallery.
And yes, even seeing a watch in the MB&F display case brings one closer to becoming a collector.
Greubel Forsey – God's Brush in Mechanics
Robert Greubel and Stephen Forsey… Two men, one sentence: “Let's redefine perfection.”
Founded in 2004, Greubel Forsey has turned complex tourbillon systems into an aesthetic passion.
The inside of the watches is like a work of art that looks perfect even under a microscope.
His most well-known creations:
- Double Tourbillon 30° ,
- Quadruple Tourbillon ,
- GMT Earth — presents an astronomical spectacle with its three-dimensional rotating globe.
Making a Greubel Forsey watch requires over 6,000 hours of handcrafting.
Annual production is less than 100.
Price? Often over $500,000.
But whoever buys it invests in the “Michelangelo of mechanical art.”
Forsey has a saying:
“Making a watch is not about measuring time, but about measuring patience.”
This is perhaps the most accurate description of all independent watchmaking.
H. Moser & Cie – Humor, Courage and Excellence
The only example that proves that a brand can carry both seriousness and humor: H. Moser & Cie.
Despite its traditional Swiss roots, the brand is one of the most entertaining "rebels" in the watch world.
Minimalist dials, logo-less designs and sometimes provocative campaigns…
But the bottom line is: great engineering.
Moser is the inventor of the fumé (smoke effect) dial design.
Those deep, gradient hues—midnight blue, burgundy, cosmic green—have become the brand's signature.
But the most striking aspect is its technical infrastructure:
- The Endeavour Perpetual Calendar offers the world's most practical perpetual calendar mechanism in a simple dial.
- The Streamliner Chronograph masterfully combines modern design with the spirit of the 1970s.
Moser's sense of humor also sets the brand apart:
They once produced a watch case made of cheese called the “Swiss Mad Watch” — a mockery of Swiss manufacturing standards.
CEO Edouard Meylan's philosophy is simple yet profound:
“We take time seriously, but never ourselves too seriously.”
The Silent Echo of Mastery: Ambassadors of Pure Horology
Roger W. Smith – English Silence, Royal Discipline
If you ask where the heart of watchmaking is outside of Switzerland, the answer is the Isle of Man.
Because Roger W. Smith, who lives here, is a student of watchmaking legend George Daniels — and his sole successor.
Smith is one of the few craftsmen who produce entirely by hand .
It does not use lathes, CNC machines, or mass production tools.
Each watch is made with approximately 2,000 hours of handcrafting .
The dials reflect classic British elegance:
silver tones, gold indices, “guiloché” patterns.
But mechanically, Smith's watches maintain the handmade production principle known as the "Daniels Method"—a tradition that has almost disappeared from modern watchmaking.
Every Smith watch is revered on a par with the British Royal family; its annual production doesn't even exceed 10.
And the waiting list for each stretches for years.
Smith says:
"The industry has shortened time. I'm turning it back."
This sentence is actually the essence of independent watchmaking: not speed, but continuity.
Christophe Claret – Mechanical Theatre
For Christophe Claret, it's not enough to call him a "watchmaker" – he's also a stage designer.
Because his clocks don't just show time, they play .
From minute repeaters (ringing mechanisms) to tourbillons, even dice-throwing complications, each is a mechanical spectacle.
For decades, Claret worked as a “ghost engineer” producing movements for other brands—a genius whose name we’ve never heard of, but whose movements we’ve seen.
He later gave his own name to the brand and rose to prominence with masterpieces such as the Trilogy of Time .
One of Claret's most interesting works is the X-TREM-1 .
In this model, the hour display is powered by metal spheres floating magnetically within the case.
So the clock is mechanical but it is also a physics experiment.
Claret's aim is clear:
"The clock should be a theatre. One should be enchanted while watching it."
Annual production is under 100 pieces, each model worthy of a collector's display.
Grönefeld Brothers – The Mechanical Twins of the Netherlands
Bart and Tim Grönefeld are two brothers who rose from the small town of Oldenzaal, Netherlands, to reach the world stage.
Today they are known as “The Horological Brothers”
The brothers grew up in the watch workshop their father ran.
After completing their training in Switzerland, they began producing pure mechanical beauties in their own workshop .
Among its most famous models are the Parallax Tourbillon , the 1941 Remontoire , and the Decennium Tourbillon .
Every part that moves inside their watches is more like art than engineering.
The level of finish approaches the Greubel Forsey standard.
Their motto is simple but sincere:
“We build time.”
(We are not just building clocks, we are building time.)
Their annual production is around 70; they are referred to by collectors as "the most honest independents."
Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud – History Reborn
Some brands are born, some are resurrected.
Ferdinand Berthoud was one of the greatest marine chronometer makers of the 18th century.
It was revived in 2015 by Chopard master Karl-Friedrich Scheufele — but this is no ordinary rebranding.
Scheufele carried Berthoud's scientific spirit into the modern age.
Berthoud watches are inspired by marine chronometers:
large power reserve indicators, complex differential systems, pure engineering.
Even the case designs are like laboratory equipment .
The Model FB 1 won the GPHG “Aiguille d'Or” (Golden Hand) award – the Oscar of the watch world.
This brand is perhaps the most masterful example of combining history and technology.
A sentence from Scheufele sums up the essence of the brand:
“To honor the past is to invent the future.”
The Future of Independent Watchmaking: In Search of the Silent Masters
Independent watchmaking is no longer just a few master workshops; it has become the conscience of horology .
Because these people don't market time—they strive to understand it .
While industry giants produce millions of parts, these craftsmen make only dozens of watches a year.
But those hours are born from thousands of hours of human labor, patience and intuition.
There is no such thing as “trend” for independents.
They do not follow time; they define time.
Why Are These Brands Important?
Because every bridge built by Philippe Dufour,
every screw that a Voutilainen polishes,
every line a Rexhepi draws,
It is an expression of sincerity that goes beyond mechanics.
Most of these brands are almost impossible to reach.
Order lists have been closed for years, production numbers are limited.
But their true value lies not in their availability,
lies in their untouchable honesty .
For collectors, a Dufour or a Rexhepi is not just a watch;
It is “a silent lesson carried throughout a lifetime.”
Because at those hours, there is not the sound of a factory, but the breath of a master craftsman .
A Movement That Slows Down Time
What makes independent watchmaking fascinating is that it is the very opposite of the modern world.
In an age where speed, production, consumption and screens reign,
These masters still spend hours per micron.
It can take 200 hours to polish a tourbillon.
It can take weeks to create a dial pattern.
But they do not rush, because they know:
“Excellence is working with time, not against it.”
So a Dufour Simplicity, a Rexhepi Chronomètre Contemporain,
or when you look at a Voutilainen Vingt-8, you don't actually see time—you see a thought that has been patiently kneaded .
The Irony of the Independents: Quiet but Effective
Interestingly, independent watchmakers are quiet, but their influence extends to the major brands.
Today, Patek Philippe's finish is measured by Voutilainen's standard.
The elegance of Rolex is compared to the craftsmanship of Dufour.
Cartier's modern haute horlogerie line has been redefined by the courage of De Bethune.
So these masters are the invisible compass of the industry.
Without them, the “luxury watch” would simply be a status object.
But now it carries a meaning, a story.
The New Wave of Independent Watchmaking
In recent years, a young wave has been emerging:
Brands such as Petermann Bédat , Naoya Hida , Kudoke , Habring² ,
follows the path blazed by these legends – with the same seriousness, the same passion.
The new generation advocates for handcrafting even in the digital age.
This shows that independent watchmaking is not just about nostalgia,
the most intimate form of luxury of the future.
Karatay Classic Watches Perspective
As Karatay Classic Watches, we not only measure time,
We respect every brand that makes you feel it.
We understand the engineering of Rolex, the aesthetics of Cartier, the history of Omega.
But also the silence of a Dufour, the madness of an MB&F,
We also know the elegance of a Voutilainen.
For us, a watch is not just a product; it is a character.
Some are majestic, some are humble.
But they all transform time into a personal story.
That's why getting to know these masters is more than just buying a watch:
It is to realize the human side of time.
Respectfully to the Watchmaker of Watchmakers
The magic of independent watchmaking lies in this:
It has no advertising, does not go out of fashion quickly, and does not go out of stock.
But in the heart of every master there is an honesty that endures through time.
Perhaps none of us will ever own a Philippe Dufour watch.
But we have a lot to learn from the way he handles time.
Just like you look for behind every Rolex, every Cartier, every Omega:
Human stories that touch time.
And perhaps that's why the best saying in watchmaking still holds true:
“There is no master of time, but there are those who express it in the most elegant way.”
Estimated Collection Values
The works of independent watchmakers measure not only time but also the perfect harmony of patience, craftsmanship, and artistry. Each limited-edition piece, these pieces hold a special place in the hearts of watch enthusiasts, far beyond the classic brands. The estimated values below are based on auction results, the collector market, and dealer sales averages as of 2025—of course, each piece is subject to change depending on the maker's signature and story.
Philippe Dufour Simplicity: 400,000 – 1,000,000 USD
FP Journe Chronomètre Bleu: 60,000 – 150,000 USD
De Bethune DB28: 100,000 – 250,000 USD
MB&F Legacy Machine series: 80,000 – 180,000 USD
Greubel Forsey: From $300,000 to over $1 million
Rexhep Rexhepi (Akrivia): 80,000 – 200,000 USD
H. Moser & Cie Streamliner: 35,000 – 60,000 USD
Kari Voutilainen: 120,000 – 250,000 USD
Roger W. Smith: 250,000 – 1,000,000 USD
Grönefeld 1941 Principia: 45,000 – 70,000 USD
These prices represent not only the value of a watch, but also the legacy of mastery, original design and collection culture for the future.
