The Story That Made a Watch a Legend
In the world of watches, some models are remembered for much more than their technical superiority. The Rolex Cosmograph Daytona “Paul Newman” is one such exception. At a 2017 Phillips auction in New York, Paul Newman’s own watch, Ref. 6239, sold for a staggering $17.8 million, shattering all auction records at the time. This record wasn’t just the price of a luxury accessory; it was the value of a cult object at the intersection of cinema, motorsports, and watch collecting.
Paul Newman's personal charisma, passion for racing, and Hollywood career lent a powerful aura to the story of this watch. However, the roots of the legend lie in a project initiated by Rolex in the early 1960s with a completely different goal: the desire to create a chronograph dedicated to motorsport.
The Birth of the Rolex Daytona (1963–1969)
The Need for Chronographs in the Motorsport Era
The late 1950s and early 1960s were the golden age of motor racing. The Le Mans, Daytona, and Monza circuits showcased not only automotive brands but also timekeeping technology. Precise chronographs became a necessity for racing teams, and it was during this period that Rolex decided to develop a professional racing chronograph.
The Origin of the Name Cosmograph
Although Rolex initially considered the new model "Le Mans," it quickly adopted the name "Cosmograph." This name evoked both a cosmic connotation and reflected the brand's unique interpretation of the word "Chronograph." The first series, the Rolex Cosmograph Ref. 6239, introduced in 1963, marked a new chapter in the brand's chronograph history.
Early References and Specifications
Ref. 6239 (1963): Steel case, black aluminum tachymeter bezel, 37 mm diameter and “pump” type chronograph pushers.
Ref. 6241 (1965): Version with a 37 mm case, distinguished by a black acrylic bezel insert.
Ref. 6262 and 6264 (1969): The same Valjoux-based movement, but with more refined details and different bezel options.
These early Daytonas were equipped with the Valjoux-based caliber 72 (modified by Rolex and renamed Cal. 722/727). This column-wheel movement, operating at 18,000 vph, was considered one of the most reliable chronographs of the era thanks to its durability and ease of service.
The Birth of the Daytona Name
In 1965, Rolex partnered with the famed Daytona International Speedway in Florida in its marketing strategy for the US market. The Cosmograph name was now stamped on the dial alongside the word "Daytona." This collaboration formalized Rolex's connection to the racing world and cemented the name by which the model is known today.
The Emergence of the “Exotic Dial”
Difference from Standard Daytona
In the mid-1960s, Rolex developed an alternative dial design for the Daytona: the distinctive face that would later become known as the “Exotic Dial.” Its distinguishing features included Art Deco-inspired numeral fonts, square-tipped markers on the subdials, contrasting color combinations, and a red minute track ring.
Why It Didn't Sell in the Early Years
For Rolex customers in the 1960s and early 1970s, the Exotic Dial was too "out of the ordinary." Because many preferred classic dials, these special-faced models remained on display for a long time. Dealers often kept these dials as optional extras, sometimes even offering them to customers at the price of a regular dial to clear stock. Low sales resulted in the production of these dials in small numbers. Today, this low production is one of the most significant factors in their collectible value.
The Birth of the Name “Paul Newman Dial”
In the late 1970s, famed actor and professional race car driver Paul Newman frequently wore a Rolex Cosmograph Daytona Ref. 6239, a gift from his wife, Joanne Woodward. Photographs documented Newman wearing this exotic-faced watch on the racetrack and in interviews. From the 1980s onward, collectors began calling these Daytonas with the exotic dial "Paul Newman Daytona," and the name quickly became established worldwide.
Paul Newman and the Speedway
Paul Newman was not only one of Hollywood's most charismatic actors, but also a serious motorsports enthusiast.
While he played the character of a professional racing pilot in the 1969 film Winning, he also became interested in racing piloting in real life.
In 1972, Joanne Woodward gave him a Rolex Cosmograph Daytona Ref. 6239 Exotic Dial as a gift and a wish for good luck in his racing career.
Where Did He Wear It?
Throughout the 1970s, Newman wore this watch both on film sets and in real-world races. He wore this Daytona to endurance races like Sebring, Le Mans, and various domestic American tracks. His photographs and magazine covers combined the watch's "racing spirit" with the actor's charisma.
The convergence of art and motorsport in Newman's career transformed the watch from a mere accessory into a symbol of lifestyle.
Technical Specifications and Mechanism
Paul Newman's legendary watch was the "Exotic Dial" version of the Rolex Cosmograph Daytona Ref. 6239. This mid-1960s model was considered one of the most advanced racing chronographs of its time, both in terms of its appearance and mechanical structure.
Case and Design
Diameter: 37 mm – A standard size for chronographs at the time, but smaller than today’s Daytonas.
Material: Stainless steel.
Bezel: Black aluminum with a tachymeter scale (up to 300 km/h). This scale was a critical tool for racing drivers to calculate average speed.
Pushers: “Pump” type (not screw-down) chronograph pushers. This detail is a characteristic signature of early Daytona references.
Dial and “Exotic Dial” Details
Black sub-dials on a white background, a red "minute track" ring and numerals in Art Deco font.
Three sub-dials: seconds, 30-minute and 12-hour chronograph counters.
This dial type was referred to as the “exotic dial” during production, but collectors renamed it the “Paul Newman dial” in the 1980s.
Movement – Rolex Caliber 722 / 727 with Valjoux 72 Base
Type: Manual winding, column-wheel chronograph.
Frequency: 18,000 vph (5 half oscillations per second).
Power reserve: Approximately 48 hours.
Advantage: Thanks to its column-wheel design, the chronograph pushers respond smoothly and precisely. Rolex has modified this movement to its own standards, making it a long-lasting and highly serviceable chronograph caliber.
Valjoux Caliber and Its Origin
Manufacturer: Valjoux (Fabrique d'Ebauches de Valles de Joux) is an ebauche (mechanism manufacturer) company founded in 1901 in the Vallée de Joux region of Switzerland.
Throughout the 20th century, it provided chronograph calibers not only to its own brand but also to many prestigious brands such as Rolex, Heuer, Breitling, Patek Philippe and Audemars Piguet.
In the 1940s, he joined Ebauches SA (the large movement manufacturing group that later became ETA). Today, it is part of the ETA/Swatch Group.
The Early Years in the Vintage Market
Interestingly, the Paul Newman-faced Daytonas that sell for millions of dollars today were disappointing sales in the 1960s and early 1970s.
Customers found the Exotic Dial too bold and gravitated towards simpler standard-face Daytonas.
Dealers had to keep these dials in stock for long periods, sometimes even trying to sell them at a discount. This low demand is the primary reason for their current collectible value: rarity.
By the 1980s, Italian collectors had become interested in Daytonas with exotic dials. Watch magazines and collectors began calling these dials the "Paul Newman Daytona." This name quickly spread worldwide. From the 1990s onward, these models became one of the most sought-after Rolex collectors.
Record Auction: 2017 Phillips Auction
The Journey of the Clock
Paul Newman gifted the watch to his son-in-law, James Cox, around 1984. Cox wore it daily for decades, but its legendary value went unnoticed for a long time.
Phillips Auction – New York 2017
The news of the sale of this watch before the auction organized by Phillips in October 2017 caused a great stir in the watch world.
The opening bid was $1 million; after just 12 minutes of bidding between telephone and in-room bidding, the watch sold for $17.8 million.
This sale marked the highest price ever paid for a watch to that date, and the Paul Newman Daytona achieved a unique status in the collecting world.
Influences Today and the Modern Daytona
Its Impact on Modern Design
Paul Newman's 6239 influenced not only the vintage collectible market but also the modern Rolex design landscape.
Even in 1988, when Rolex introduced the first Daytona with an automatic caliber (16520 based on the Zenith El Primero), the dial design reflected the spirit of the Paul Newman era with contrasting subdials and sporty lines.
The modern Daytona (e.g. 116500LN), which arrived in 2000 with its own in-house caliber 4130, is a nod to the Paul Newman legacy with its combination of a black ceramic bezel and a panda-style white-and-black dial on a steel case.
Market Value and Collector Interest
Today, 1960s–70s Daytonas with the “Paul Newman dial” are among the most valuable models on the vintage watch market.
Ref. 6239 or 6241s with original dials and well-preserved cases can fetch over half a million dollars at auction.
While a watch worn by Paul Newman himself set a record of $17.8 million, even examples of exotic dials without his "celebrity connection" sell for hundreds of thousands of dollars.
This increase in value is not due solely to rarity, but to the watch's cult status in the history of watchmaking.
Tips for Collectors
Authenticity: The color and typography of the exotic dial, sub-dial rings, and red minute track must be original. Service dials significantly reduce the value of a collection.
Provenance: Documented history of the watch (first owner, invoice, old photos) can increase the price.
Mechanical Condition: While the Valjoux 72-based Cal. 722/727 is a solid movement, proper maintenance and servicing by a competent watchmaker is essential.
Additional Notes for the Collection
Other Paul Newman References
The Paul Newman dial is not limited to the Ref. 6239. In the late 1960s and early 1970s, Rolex used this “exotic dial” on several different Daytona references:
Ref. 6241 (1965–1969): Similar to the 6239 with a black acrylic bezel insert and pump buttons; produced with white and black dial options.
Ref. 6262 & 6264 (1969–1970): Models with the Valjoux 727 calibre, which remained in production for a short time, are rare examples with classic bezels and pump buttons.
Ref. 6263 & 6265 (1971–1987): The first Paul Newman-faced Daytonas with the more durable “Oyster” case, featuring screw-down pushers and 100 m water resistance.
Because the production numbers of these references are low, each one reaches similarly high values in the collectors' market.
Price Trend Up
The collectible value of the Paul Newman Daytona has increased dramatically since the 1980s:
1980s: While the interest of Italian collectors was just increasing, prices were at the level of 3-5 thousand USD.
Late 1990s: Rare exotic dial models began to find buyers for 30–50 thousand USD.
2000s: The $100,000 threshold was frequently exceeded.
2017: Ref. 6239, personally worn by Paul Newman, broke the world record at a Phillips auction with $17.8 million.
Today, it is common for original exotic dial 6239 or 6263 models to see prices exceeding 500 thousand USD, depending on their condition.
Zenith Era Connection
In 1988, Rolex introduced an automatic movement for the Daytona for the first time: the Calibre 4030, based on the Zenith El Primero calibre. Watches from this period are often referred to as the “Zenith Daytona.”
They launched the modern Daytona line with 40 mm cases and sapphire crystals.
Although the “Paul Newman spirit” is not present as a one-to-one dial in this series, they have continued the legacy of the legend with contrasting sub-dials and sporty aesthetics.
In 2000, Rolex began a new chapter in automatic Daytonas by switching to its own in-house Caliber 4130.
The Intersection of Cinema, Motorsports and Watchmaking
The Rolex Cosmograph Daytona “Paul Newman” is not just a timekeeper; it is the collective memory of cinema, motorsport and collecting.
It was born in 1963 as a chronograph designed for motorsport.
It moved from racetracks to Hollywood sets on Paul Newman's wrist in the 1970s.
It sold at auction for $17.8 million in 2017, making it one of the most expensive objects in watchmaking history.
Today, traces of his legacy remain in the design DNA of modern Daytonas. The Paul Newman Daytona remains a timeless testament to how a watch can become iconic and a cultural symbol.
The Origin and Meaning of the Name “Daytona”
Daytona Beach , Florida , gained fame for its speed record attempts in the early 20th century thanks to its hard, flat sands. Daytona International Speedway , which opened in 1959 , became a hub for motorsports, hosting the Daytona 500, NASCAR's most prestigious race.
When Rolex became the official timekeeper of this track in 1962 , it named its special chronograph model, the "Cosmograph Daytona," which combined racing spirit and watchmaking. Introduced in 1963, this model was designed for the needs of professional pilots and quickly became legendary both in the racing world and among collectors.
Today, when "Daytona" is mentioned, it refers not only to the famous beach and track in Florida, but also to Rolex's iconic chronograph, which symbolizes the passion for speed and timeless luxury .
